XIV Sarajevo Winter Olympics: Then and Now

Higher, Faster, Stronger

I have always been in love with the Olympic Games. It is, by far, my favorite sporting event. Some people love the Super Bowl, March Madness, the Kentucky Derby, the Masters, or the World Cup. I dream about the Olympics. We were fortunate enough to attend the 2002 SLC Games and I hope to visit a Summer Games at least once in my life (maybe 2028 L.A.). 

After the exhilaration of 1980 Lake Placid (Eric Heiden and the miracle on ice), I was emotionally devastated by Jimmy Carter's decision to boycott the Moscow Summer Games (Carter...for me...will always be considered the Worst President Ever due to that singular decision...worst than Watergate). And so, after 4 long years of waiting, I found myself glued to the TV set in February of 1984 when the 14th Winter Olympiad introduced me to the distant land of Sarajevo, Yugoslovia. 

As a resident of Sarajevo, I can tell you that the city has many different identities. But the one that I love the most is its identity as a former host of the Winter Olympic Games. During this post I want to take you through a little of the Olympic history...showcasing some of the drama that kept my eyeballs glued to Jim McKay's coverage along with some pictures of these venues as they exist today.

I am not sure what the event was...but I certainly am a poor loser. This Olympic podium is found on Mount Igman near the ski jump hill.

Why Sarajevo?

As I have become familiar with the countries that comprise former Yugoslavia, I have realized that Sarajevo is not the obvious choice to host a Yugoslavian Olympic Games. The obvious choice is Slovenia which is on the Julian Alps. 

Briel looking out over Lake Bled with the beginning of the Julian Alps in the background.

I do not know why Tito decided Sarajevo in lieu of Slovenia. But I do know some of the history regarding the attitudes leading up to the games. Here is an excerpt from a book entitled The Sarajevo Olympics which I found illuminating.

"In Feb 1983 the journalist William Oscar Johnson and photographer Jerry Cooke drove the length of Yugoslavia, from Slovenia in the north to Macedonia in the south, to produce an itinerary of sorts for people traveling to the 1984 Winter Olympic Games. The two men crossed at Maribor, Slovenia then stopped at Lake Bled, a resort village high in the Julian Alps. In the luxurious Grand Hotel Toplice, where in the 1961 the American chess master Bobby Fischer defeated the Soviet Mikhail Tal, they met with a man from the Lake Bled Tourist Association. 'We asked him if he thought the Olympics in Sarajevo would be well run,' Johnson wrote. 'He frowned and said, 'Tourism is not traditional in Bosnia. There will be problems...the big things, the competitions, will be very good...but the problem is the small things. Nobody changes light bulbs. The running water stops and no one fixes it. These are small things. But the small things make a big mosaic everyone remembers after the Olympics.' Johnson called it 'provincial prejudice,' for Slovenes typically viewed Bosnians as peasants and yokels and resented the fact that smoggy Sarajevo and not, say, Ljubljana, the Slovene capital, had landed the games. An Olympics in Bosnia? People told jokes about Bosnia, for everyone knew Mujo and Haso, the two Muslim ne'er-do-wells who were the Laurel and Hardy of Yugoslav jokes. The stereotype was that Bosnians were dumb. In one joke Mujo finished a puzzle and said 'Look, Haso, it took me only a month but the box here says three to five years.' In another joke Mujo declared 'I think, therefore I am,' then poof, he disappeared. 'The difference between Slovenia and Bosnia is plain,' the tourist official said. 'The Muslims there have always looked to Allah to produce for them and patiently wait until tomorrow...Do you know this word 'phlegmatically'? This is what may prevail in Sarajevo. 

If this sign that I found at the Olympic ski jump facility is any indication, bathrooms may have been on of the "small things" that were problematic.

The Slovenes were so worried about Bosnia hosting the games that they petitioned Tito in 1979 and argued that "the games should not be hosted." 

This was the site of the Olympic village. These buildings are within walking distance of our apartments. 

But Sarajevo did serve as host. And the world fell in love with Sarajevo as a consequence. Despite a few "small things" (the Olympic flag was hoisted upside down during the opening ceremony), the games were a roaring success and a source of pride for the country of Yugoslavia. Below is the first of several videos from 1984. This one shows pictures from the opening ceremonies and the venues that were used during the games.

Venue Summary from 1984

Opening Ceremonies to the XIV Winter Olympiad.

The First Real Shock of the Games

Traditionally, the men's skiing downhill race is held on the first day of competition. High-speed, thrilling, and extremely dangerous, this event takes just about an hour to contest. No American had ever won the men's downhill at the Olympics. That is until 1984 Sarajevo.

The men's downhill was held at Bjelašnica. I have not skiied their but I plan to this year since they are adding a high-speed lift. We have visited during the summer and found some hiking trails, cows, and paragliding. It is a popular summer destination.

We also rent 4-wheelers at the resort there. 

During practice runs, a brash young American, Bill Johnson, was excelling. So the American broadcasters were talking him up during the first day of Olympic coverage. So he did not come completely out of the "blue." Here's his famous run to win the gold medal.

Men's Downhill

Bill Johnson shocked the skiing world with his unexpected Olympic victory.

The Biggest Stars of the Games

Ice skating and hockey competitions took place at Skendaria, an indoor facility in the heart of town that now hosts events like Tourist Expos and International Fairs. And it was in this arena where the biggest stars of the 1984 Olympics competed. 

The Olympic logo outside of Skendaria. Note the drone which is about to take-off for a flight above the city.

For one brief shining moment, the relatively unknown sport of ice dancing stole the heart of the world. Two British ice dancers, Jane Torvill and Christopher Dean, took advantage of some rule changes which allowed more freedom in their sport. The result was an innovative routine to the classical song "Bolero" which captivated the world. And the judges. Their performance was scored "perfect" by all of the judges. 

Torvill and Dean's Bolero

Although I knew nothing about ice dancing going into Sarajevo, the hype made this competition "must see TV" for me and everyone else across the world. I cannot name another ice dancing team ever. But I will never forget Torvill and Dean.

Events on Skates

Skating events were either held in Skendaria or near the Olympic Stadium. Today the stadium is used for a number of purposes. Most dear to the heart of some Sarajevo residents is the football stadium, home to FK Sarajevo. Sarajevo has three teams but the two most prominent are FK and Zelje. I was lucky enough to attend one of their games (aka darby) this past summer. 

Taking pictures of Sarajevo from Trebević. The arrow points out Olympic stadium.

This is the Olympic stadium. A little run-down but still functional.

Haris, Elder Smith, and Elder Echols enjoying the match between FK and Zelje.

The stadium still stands despite being burnt down every year at "darby" time.

They also hold other sporting events at the Stadium. Esma, one of our close Bosnian friends, has a brother who loves to compete in short-track speed skating events at the ice rink near the stadium. 

This is Esma's brother on the short-track.

The king and queen of the Winter Olympics are generally the winners of the men's and women's figure skating events. In Sarajevo this makes America's Scott Hamilton the King and East Germany's Katarina Witt the Queen.

Scott Hamilton

Katarina Witt

This was the first of back-to-back gold medals for Witt.

Hamilton became the voice of skating broadcasts in the U.S.

A Sarajevo Icon

If you only have one day in Sarajevo, there are two places you must visit to truly get a flavor for the city. The first is Baščaršija (old town) and the second is the bobsled run on Trebević. There is something special about being able to walk the bobsled track. The locals have filled it with graffiti which makes it more personalized. 

Doing the Bobsled with Downi and Boyce.

I kinda of liked this graffiti bus. Unfortunately it was painted over six months ago. Replaced by some letters which are not as cool.

Elder Isom getting the full laser treatment from the "Wolf."

The city is quick to point out that the track is still in use. What that means is that in the autumn several Eastern European teams come and practice wheeled luge to get ready for their season. But mainly it is one of Sarajevo's top tourist attractions. 

The track cleaned up and ready for use.

People bike down it, walk along it, and jog on it. I have done the up and down jog before. 

Me mid-run.

Here's some coverage from the bobsled competition.

Bobsled

Before coming to Sarajevo, Briel, Mitch and I went down the Bobsled track in Park City. I did not realize how strong the G-Forces are on your body.

The Best Twins in Olympic History

The slalom events were held at Jahorina, This is only 45-minutes from our apartment so I was able to go skiing there 4 times last season. Remarkably inexpensive, the ski area is small by Rocky Mountain standards. They do not have many mogul runs so most everything is groomed and easy skiing. 

Anna came with us one morning. Hopefully there are ski resorts in Greece!

I am sure Brig and Jet would just jump over this minor outcropping of rock and trees.

I have not ridden a "T-bar" lift since my early days skiing Pinedale. Nearly fell down the first time up. I can't imagine trying to ride this lift up using a snow board.

In winter Sarajevo displays a majestic beauty. The snow replaces the fallen leaves which seems to bring new life to the forest. 

Once the leaves fall, the mountains of Bosnia are drab and depressing. The first snows, however, bring everything back to  life as a beautiful white blanket seems to cover the forest. The trees seem to embrace this whiteness, displaying a celestial glory as they prepare for spring's rebirth.

We were able to ski one fresh powder day. My heart was willing but my legs were not. I did not last too long playing in the un-groomed snow.

In 1984 two skiing twins, Phil and Steve Mahre, did the impossible. They finished 1-2 in the men's slalom. What a tremendous day for the Mahre family. 

Slalom Competition

The Mahre Brothers Receive Gold Medals

Phil and Steve Mahre (only their mother knows who is who).

Fly Like an Eagle

I remember watching the 1972 Sapporo Winter Olympics on a black and white television below a quilting frame that my mother was working on. I was fascinated with the ski jump. When I watched the ski jump live in 2002, however, I was in awe at how far they flew but found the event kind of boring. When you have seen one ski jump, it seemed to me at the time, you've seen them all. 

The ski jumps on Mount Igman.

Lesser known than the bobsled track but still as fascinating, the ski jump hills have also fallen into disarray. This means that you can climb them and see how steep they really are. You cannot, however, jump off of them...the drop is way too steep.

From this angle, the hills do not appear that steep.

However, as you climb up the jumps, you realize how steep they really are. This was as high as I could safely climb up the hill. And the thought of skiing down this thing, jumping, and then landing down where those small people are is terrifying.

The Flying Finn

Matti Nykanen began his dominance of the sport in Sarajevo.

Closing Ceremony

As Dionne and I are pondering our post-Sarajevo life, I am reminded of the thrill that a city receives while hosting an Olympics. Time seems magical while the competition is underway. But you know that it has to come to an end some day. And our end is coming way to soon.

Loving winter in Bosnia. But not for too much longer.

The 14th Winter Olympiad was a rousing success. During the closing ceremony, IOC president Juan Antonio Samaranch stated that the games were "a wonderful success...I am convinced they will remain forever in our hearts and memories...doviđenja, Yugoslavia. Doviđenja, drago Sarajevo." Milton Richman, the longtime sports editor at UPI, insisted that Sarajevo's games were "beyond question the best organized and most smoothly run" he'd seen in a quarter century. "What impressed me the most is how the Yugoslavian people did everything possible, and some things that seemed impossible. The games were without wrinkle from the Opening Ceremony right down to the closing one. Nothing was too difficult for them...and when you tried to thank them, they smiled affably and said nema problema." Everyone was friendly almost too a fault. My favorite story is told by a reporter who was attending the game with his family. "My son and daughter, age nine and twelve, were nonplussed to find that when they rode in taxis alone, the taxi drivers often, as a sign of courtesy, offered them cigarettes...smoking is big in Sarajevo, but this big?"

John Denver in Sarajevo