Home Sweet Home

Home can mean many things. Home is a building where you live. Home is a place you go at the end of the day. Home to me is not about a physical location, it's about being with people you love. The past nine months I have found home in my heart, and it's a spacious home with room for so much more. We have actually had limited travel the past two weeks so between meetings and emails I've had time to reflect on our journey and the people that have helped me find home in a new land.

Ready to be inspired!

Last Saturday we had Zone Conference in Banja Luka. Zone conference is a day when all the missionaries in Bosnia gather to receive instruction, be uplifted by one another and share experiences. There are 16 missionaries living in three different cities in Bosnia. In addition to Denny and I, there is one other Senior Couple, the Bradfords, who live in Banja Luka. There are also 12 young missionaries in our zone (Bosnia), 8 young men and 4 young ladies, who serve with all their heart. There are four missionaries in each of the cities of Sarajevo, Banja Luka and Tuzla. They are here to share a message of love and hope with the people. They spend an average of 8-10 hours each day on the streets talking to people, some interested in learning more, some not. As I took pictures and watched their beautiful smiles at Zone Conference I felt at home.

The four young ladies of the Bosnia zone!

After conference

Almost every zone conference I get a request to make cinnamon rolls

Elder King (in the middle) is actually about 6" taller than everyone else!

Elders Hole and Hardy who serve in Tuzla, the smallest of the Bosnia cities.

This picture is older, but still shows
how much Iman loves Amani!

Because our travel schedule has been a bit lighter the past two weeks I have had an opportunity to spend more time at one of my homes here in Bosnia, the barn! As most of you know one of my greatest passions is teaching people to ride, regardless of their ability. In the last week I have taught six lesson and a total of eleven different riders. And I have loved every minute of it! Pegasos (home of Riders of Hope) is hosting a Bosnia and Herzegovina Equestrian Federation dressage show the first weekend of June and I have had the privilege of helping prepare these eleven riders for the show. Teaching these young riders truly inspires me! They work so hard to improve and are some of the kindest young people I've had the pleasure to teach. They are helpful to me, to each other and truly exhibit love for one another and their equine partners. And they almost all volunteer to help with the Riders of Hope program as well. This year Riders of Hope will also have participants in the show. Two of the riders I have been teaching all winter, along with another rider from the program, will make their debut in the show arena. This home definitely has my heart! I wish I had pictures of all of the riders I have been working with. I will definitely put that on my to do list. Here are a few pictures I "borrowed" from other sources so you could see at least a few of the amazing young people I have been blessed to work with.

Asja and Zaid from a previous show last year.
They will compete again this year as well. 

Iman S. competing last year.

Merima is so passionate about horses and has been
working so hard to improve her riding!

Tea and her beautiful black Fresian, Epke.

Esma is very excited to ride Gypsy in her first show!

This picture if from last fall. The young missionaries help each week with my 
Riders of Hope lessons. This rider will also compete in the show next month.

Because of Mala Sirena, he has hope for his future.

Pursuing our vision to leave a positive impact on the lives of those with disabilities in BiH has tugged at our heartstrings on more than one occasion. Visiting organizations around the country that have the same desire for this group of people has been at times heart wrenching, yet inspiring on so many levels. From a small apartment helping three children with special needs, one organization has grown so large it will soon relocate to a full school and serve over 100 students. Out of her desire to secure a better future for her own son on the Autism spectrum, one mother has created a program that now offers multiple therapies and an inclusive kindergarten program in her small community. Not only do they serve nearly 100 children at the center and help with inclusion in the local schools, they also offer educational workshops for parents. Other programs offer vocational training for young adults with disabilities to ensure they have life skills as well as job skills, making their futures brighter. Each time we meet with one of theses organizations and talk to the champions of these programs my heart is touched and I know this is another home for me. A place that will always draw me in, accept me and love me for who I am.

Horse, child, smiles...nothing more needs to be said.

How could a teacher not allow this child to be in the classroom?

Nothing brings my heart greater joy than smiling faces!

The hug says it all. Adisa is one of the greatest champions for
children with disabilities that I have ever met. Because of her
and those who work with her, children in her program have
a much brighter future.

And while I am finding home in this new place, my family still holds my heart, still is my eternal home. AND.... I get to spend Mother's day with some of them. Only about 12 hours until I get to hug at least a few of these special people. I can't begin to tell you how excited I am! I just wish they could all be here!

We got to an amazing couple of days with
Brayden and Erica last month!

Kellan is enjoying time with his other grandma,
but we will get to see him in less than 9 months!
But Britni and Richie will be here in the morning!

Brennen and Amy are enjoying Europe and I will be
enjoying them for Mother's Day!

So excited to see Briel and Mitch in the morning!

Wish they could be here too, but love and miss
them all more than they could possibly know!

Home. No, it is not a place, but a feeling. A feeling of belonging, of feeling of acceptance and a feeling of love. It can be found anywhere you are if you look.

Who Was the First Missionary in Bosnia i Hercegovina?

The Official Opening of Bosnia i Hercegovina to Missionary Work

Missionary work is an important part of the Lord's work. Only a few months after the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints was organized, Samuel Smith was formally called on a mission to teach the gospel (June 1830). The missionary tradition has continued unabated since then. There are missionaries across the globe but only in locations where they are officially recognized. The most successful country mission has been Tonga. The first missionaries appeared on Tonga soil in 1891 and today 57% of Tongans are Latter-Day Saints.

In September 2010, Apostle Russell M. Ballard dedicated Bosnia Hercegovina for missionary work. It would be another few years, however, until the first proselyting young missionaries were assigned to the country. This happened in March of 2012 when 6 missionaries were assigned (4 in Sarajevo, 2 in Banja Luka). One of these six was Brian Bishop, a young man who did our language training at the MTC. They were the first official missionaries assigned to the country.

But this is not their story.

Who Were the First Proselyting Missionaries in Bosnia i Hercegovina?

This is the story about two Elders who may have been the first to have ever actively proselyted (with name tags) in BiH.

In 2003 the Croatia Zagreb Mission entailed Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia Hercegovina, and Kosovo. But there were only missionaries in Slovenia and Croatia at the time. Including senior couples, there were about 75 missionaries in total. At this time, Serbia was in the Bulgaria Mission. Sometime in 2004, the name of the mission was changed to the Croatia Slovenia Mission but the boundaries did not change.

In June 2005, the mission president, Ralph Aardema, visited some members in Sarajevo who worked for the U.S. Embassy. He took two young missionaries with him, Elder Michael Wright and Elder Benjamin Wood. They spent the weekend in Sarajevo.

Pictured left-to-right...Michael Wright, Sheila Aardema, Ralph Aardema, and Benjamin Wood.

President Aardema had visited Bosnia Hercegovina several times before. But it is not believed that he brought missionaries with him when he visited.

Arrival In Bosnia

The group crossed the border a Slavonski Brod and drove through Doboj and Zenica to get to Sarajevo. They arrived on a Saturday mid-day.

Michael Wright at the Slavonski Brod border crossing.

After arriving, a U.S. Diplomat (Brian) gave the group a tour of the "Turkish Quarters." I assume this means Barščaršijska.

Brian (U.S. diplomat) and Pres. Aardema talking to an unknown  man in front of a mosque.

After the tour, the two Elders set off to do some good "old fashioned" street contacting. They were told that they should test the waters to determine how Bosnians would react to their message. So Elder Wright and Elder Wood spent the afternoon proselyting in Sarajevo.

Elder Wright at Pigeon Square. 

Elder Wright on a bridge near where Ferdinand was shot. (I have never seen the water so blue)

How was the Message Received?

One reason missionaries like Bosnia is because people will talk to them. They are generally not very receptive to their message but Bosnians are not rude.

And this is reception that the two Elders received when they proselyted for a few hours in Sarajevo. Elder Wright recalls that "most people were not interested but were nice enough to talk for a few minutes."

I am not sure outside a mosque is a great way to "test the waters" Elders. But you did get some great pictures.

The Remainder of the Weekend

After a couple hours of street contacting, the Elder's spent the night at a member's apartment.

The view from their apartment.

The colors have not changed much since 2005.

Church the following morning was held in a member's living room. With the missionaries and kids, a total of 14 people attended sacrament meeting. A quick lunch and then the group was off to return to Zagreb.

Outside the house where they held sacrament meeting. 60% of the congregation was in this photo.

Really the First Missionaries?

In Elder Wright's words..."As far as I know, no missionaries had ever actively proselyted in Bosnia until our trip in June of 2015. I believe there had been missionaries there in the late 70's, but they did not wear white shirts, ties, and tags; more of a social program to share the Gospel."

The first humanitarian projects that we have record of started in 2004. It is likely that these were managed outside of Bosnia at that time since they are relatively simple food projects. A few years later larger projects such as Maternal Newborn Care and Wheelchairs started in Bosnia.

The rest of the Sunday congregation.

Epilogue

Just a year later, Serbia was added to the mission and it was renamed the Adriatic North Mission. About this time the city of Split was closed to missionaries. Elder Wright remembers it being an "incredibly interesting city" but with very little success for missionaries.

When Elder Wright left the mission, no chapels had been built. Ljubljana and Zagreb got chapels just a few years later.

Michael Wright served from May 2003 to June 2005. From December 2004 to June 2006 Emily Bate Wright, his future wife, served in Slovenia. I guess there is some love found across the Croatian- Slovenian border after all.

(Pictured L-R) Elliot, Emily, Dean, Michael and Gretchen Wright.

Half over or half to go??

You'll learn more about this amazing guy later in the post, but
I wanted a cute picture to show up on my FaceBook link so
I had to put a cute picture for the first thing in the blog!

As I looked at the date today I was reminded that we have now completed half of our mission assignment. Is it half over or do we have half to go? As I pondered that question my mind raced through the past nine months. The overwhelming sense of being outside my comfort zone when we first arrived has now dissipated. The surroundings are now familiar, friends are like family and the mission is now my new comfort zone. Much like winter turning into spring, it has been a gradual shift from cold and snow to sunshine and warmth. Although there have also been a few unexpected "flurries" in the mission, much like the snow we have experienced here in April. Because of the flurries and rain, the flowers spring up from the moist ground radiating beauty to a once brown and gray landscape. I am now surrounded by that beauty in all aspects of the missionary work. I truly feel that I am now living the old adage "bloom where you are planted." I like to think of myself as an optimistic person, although my husband my disagree on some levels, so as I contemplate that question again, is it half over or do we have half to go, I choose to look to the future and think about all that we hope to accomplish in the remaining nine months that we have here in the mission field. It's definitely speeding by and I hope we will always remember to treasure each moment.

The work continues here in Bosnia. In addition to the community projects that local missionaries like Denny and I coordinate and emergency response efforts, LDS Charities has many programs around the world that are referred to as Major Initiatives. Major Initiatives are spearheaded by LDS Charities main headquarters in Salt Lake City, with a different specialist assigned to oversee the Major Initiatives in each area of the world. There are six Major Initiatives: Wheelchairs, Clean Water, Benson Food (self reliance through food production), Immunizations, Maternal and Newborn Care and Vision. Bosnia has been fortunate to have had five of the six programs (excluding Immunizations) implemented here in the past five years.

For 2017, Wheelchairs and Clean Water have been discontinued, Wheelchairs due to customs issues and Clean Water because it is no longer needed. Benson Foods, in cooperation with the local NGO Muslim Aid, will be assisting in providing greenhouses to nearly 400 individuals/families this year. Maternal Newborn Care was started in Bosnia about ten years ago and will resume training this fall for medical staff in newborn resuscitation, which has had a huge impact resulting in a significant decrease in infant mortality and complications due to lack of oxygen at birth. This program literally saves lives! Another very successful program in Bosnia has been the implementation of vision screening in the schools through Vision Care projects in multiple cantons (equivalent of a county.)

Earlier this month Ike Ferguson, the Vision Care Specialist, came to follow up with the numerous ongoing vision projects and meet with local leaders in the Ministries of Health and Education to discuss future collaborations in a new canton. We spent the week traveling with him and the in-country coordinators that assist with all the ground work and translations for the vision projects. It was a very "eye-opening" week. As the screening results are now coming in, they are finding that 9-11% of children in Bosnia are being sent for further evaluation. This is nearly double the average in the U.S. With early detection, many future problems will be avoided. It also gave us an opportunity to meet more people who we may be able to network with for our community projects.

While we are used to using the ABC side of the eye chart, they
use the other side with the "E" and the children are asked to turn
their "E" the same direction as the one pointed to on the chart. 

Meeting to discuss vision care. Ike Ferguson on the far right.
It was nice to finally meet him in person after months of
emails and a few phone calls about vision projects!

While the vision projects are very beneficial and we enjoyed learning more about them, the most exhilarating thing we did last week was visit our friends at Mala Sirena. They have now been using their tablets with students for a little over a month now. We were thrilled to see the work they are doing and the progress they are making with some of their students as we observed their therapist working with some of these amazing children. Here are a few highlights:

This little guy has struggled with some of the traditional therapies
they have tried, but has blossomed on the tablet! He's now able
to demonstrate his true cognitive abilities and is not limited by his
inability to grasp memory game cards or hold a pencil. His finger
dexterity as well as his hand/eye coordination has improved in
the short amount of time he has spent using the tablet during his
therapy sessions. And he thinks he's just playing games! 

This sweetie will now actively participate in her therapy sessions.
Before the tablet, she would knock everything off the table and
refused to engage in activities during her therapy sessions. Now
she is happily doing both her traditional and tablet sessions! They
are already seeing huge progress in many of her therapy goals!

No one can say that video isn't an exhibition of total engagement and enjoyment! Doing simple exercises like Squish the Squash (Thanks to Chris Tholen for the suggested apps!) has already increased his ability to use his arm, hand and fingers. His favorite game is Memory. When he used to play it with traditional Memory game cards on the table, he didn't seem to understand the game. On the tablet, he's a master Memory maker! It seems now that it wasn't his cognitive ability to play that was limited, only his physical ability. Now he's free to show everyone just how smart he really is!

I couldn't stop smiling the entire visit. It's amazing how technology can improve lives if used correctly. Adisa, the center director, also told us that they have one young girl who is non-verbal that is currently being trained to use the tablet to communicate. We weren't able to observe her, but her therapist said she can now tell people her name using her tablet, something she has never been able to do before. They will continue teaching her how to use the tablet and we are looking forward to visiting again to see her progress.

Since our first meeting with Adisa at Mala Sirena, she has wanted to show us the Stone Spheres near the small town where the center is located. We finally made it happen on our most recent visit. We also had the pleasure of meeting her son and sharing the time with her daughter who we had met previously. The origin of the stone spheres is unknown. Some believe they are ancient man made stones, others believe they may have been created by a natural process called concretion. Whatever their origin, they were impressive! The area is also another example of the beauty of Bosnia.

There are several of these stone spheres throughout the area. 

Adisa with her son and daughter. Her son, who
has autism, is the inspiration behind Mala Sirena. 

This picture doesn't truly reflect the beauty of the moment as
the sun finally broke through the clouds and shone down
upon us as we took in the beauty of God's handiwork. 

So, for now, I will focus on that half left to go! We still have 9 months to feel God's hand in our work here in the Balkans. 9 months to make lifelong friends. 9 months to expand our hearts to love deeper and 9 months to make a difference for those we serve in this always surprising, breathtakingly beautiful place on earth. We definitely have half of the mission to go! Which is a great thing because we have quite a few new projects waiting before us!

Off-the-Beaten Path in the Adriatic North Mission

Going Beyond Rick Steves'

When we got our call to serve in the Adriatic North Mission, Dionne and I were quite unfamiliar with Bosnia Hercegovina, Croatia, Serbia, Slovenia, and Montenegro. We quickly did some on-line searches, immediately discovered the beauty of Dubrovnik, and purchased Rick Steves' guidebooks. 

We love Rick Steves' Europe series and have found him very helpful in the past. But after living here for 8 months, we have discovered some lesser known wonders in each of these 5 countries which are not on Rick Steves' radar. So I want to share 5 gems from the Adriatic North Mission countries which are off-the-beaten path. So...going from North to South...here we go.

Slovenia - Križna Jama

Slovenia is a land of wonderful caves. So how can a cave in Slovenia be considered off-the-beaten path? When only 1,000 people are allowed to take this cave tour, it is off-the-beaten path!

Dionne enjoying the Spring weather at Miškar, the B&B we stayed at.

We traveled to central Slovenia intending to tour one of the two famous caves, Postojna or Škocjan. We stayed the night at a little B&B called Miškar. In the morning our host, Igor, asked what our plans were for the day. When we said we were planning on doing a cave, he said the best cave was Križna Jama and that he happened to be a guide. My skeptical radar turned on but I heard him out. As he described the cave, we became more interested. Soon he was canceling his day's activities to take us into Križna Jama...the only visitors into the cave that day.

Our outfits included wet suits, boots, helmets, lights, and an extra pair of socks. This is getting serious!

What is so special about Križna Jama? Underwater lakes, 22 of them to be exact. As the map below shows, Križna Jama used to have a single river flowing through it. Over time the sediment deposits created barriers within the river...thus 22 lakes.

This is a map of the cave. There is a one-hour tour that goes to the first lake...short boat ride and you're out. Unfortunately there is nothing interesting in that first hour. So that tour is a waste of time. For ecological reasons, only 1,000 people a year take the 4-hour tour (4 per day). This goes about half way through the lakes (just beyond the large fork in the river). There is a 7-hour tour which only 100 people a year are allowed to take. This goes all the way to the end. 

And how do you travel through a cave with 22 lakes? By boat of course.

This is not a "lighted" cave...so the pictures do not do justice to the beauty of this cave and the water. The only light was on our three heads.

Twenty thousand years ago cave bears used to hibernate in this cave. These bears were larger than polar bears and herbivores. This is one of their skulls which was found in the cave.

The skull on-top is a regular brown bear; the one below is a cave bear. These were massive mammals.

The longest lake snakes for approximately 1/2 km and takes 20 minutes to row. Everything is remarkably calm and quiet within this cave. Since we were not doing the rowing, it also was very relaxing.

Welcome to the belly of the beast!

Unlike the more famous counterparts, this cave system is being aggressively preserved ecologically. This is why only 1,000 tourists are allowed to enter each year. And they have systems for monitor the impact that these tourists have on the cave. If too much damage occurs, then they lower the number of tourists who enter. Rainfall also affects access. There are seasons when they have to close the cave to tourists.

The formations were impressive.

At one point on the river Igor pulled up to a formation and, by tapping, he was able to play some music. So cool.

This is a pretty spooky formation...in the middle of it there appears to be a set of gnarly teeth. Reminded me of Alien.

I asked Igor who knows about this cave. He said that most of their tourists are from Israel. Apparently word is out about Križna Jama in Israel. Very few Americans tour this cave. So maybe this blog can help sway a few Americans to take this amazing journey!

Križna Jama expedition team ready to explore!!!

Bosnia - Jajce Water Mills

I have already blogged about the drive between Jajce and Banja Luka. And the town of Jajce is certainly on the beaten path for Bosnian travelers. There is a wonderful waterfall at the center of town and an old Bosnian kingdom castle in the middle of town. Jajce is a great place to visit in central Bosnia.

Our friends George and Marcia Bennett in front of the Jajce waterfall.

Much lesser known, however, are the water mills at Jajce. These are 20+ little flour mills built along the river. Years ago, each family was assigned to share a mill and they would mill their grains here. We are not sure if these are still functioning...we highly doubt it.

Each of the mills have a number and are locked. So technically they could still function I guess.

When Dionne and I first visited, it was in January. The combination of the icy river and the flour mills was overwhelming. One of the most gorgeous scenes I have ever discovered.

The frozen water wheels.

Can you tell that it is cold out here?

We will return to the water mills of Jajce again. I am sure that it is pretty during the different seasons as well (especially Spring). While doing an emergency relief delivery in nearby Banja Luka, one of our aid recipients showed us his pride and joy...a functioning water flour mill which he had on his property. I took this video from his mill.

It just will not be a same in the summer time.

Serbia - Sargan Eight Railway

A little piece of my heart travels on the train between Durango and Silverton Colorado each day. My grandmother was the curator of a museum in Silverton. Every time we would visit the highlight of the day was when the train pulled into town. So I have a soft spot for old historic trains.

Elder Taylor and Geertsen boarding the train.

The Sargan Eight is a narrow gauge railway which uses original trains. Originally conceived to connect Beograd and Sarajevo in the 1880s, construction did not finish until the 1930s. Then the train operated until the mid-70s when it was shut down. A few years ago a portion of the railway was reopened for tourists. Only 500 seats are available on the daily 2-hour trip...so book ahead. These are almost always sold out!

The Sargan Eight train. There were 5 cars with no facilities!!!

The path that they have reopened is quite scenic (although not Silverton scenic...I am forever spoiled). A cool feature is that the train goes through 22 tunnels during the trip. And stops at 4-5 little towns.

The best place to ride the train is in between the cars in the open air. 

Some of the tunnels were very long..2-3 minutes of darkness. 

The stops are quaint and interesting. But nothing to really write home about. The coolest pictures I have are of missionaries posing and a walkway made of railroad ties.

Don't these two make a wonderful couple?

As it turns out, this was a really neat walk way. Much easier to walk on than cobblestones.

I looked for the bathroom facilities at one of our stops...and this is what I found. Don't see outhouses that often...especially the kind with only a triangle in the floor. Needless to say I held it til our next stop.

Usually an outhouse is placed upon a hole dug into the ground. The smell is awful but the sights are not too bad. Unpictured is that this outhouse is just built on a slope...no hole.

My aim is not good enough for this.

Croatia - WWII Artillery at Mljet National Park

Rick Steves' brought us to Mljet island. I liked the sound of it. Secluded, kayaking and biking, wonderful inlet, and a national park. What we did not realize is that the island shuts down during the off-season and March is off-season. We had found a place to stay and so assumed that things would be open. By "things" I mean restaurants, rental shops, etc. I was wrong. Nothing was open except our little B&B. And we were the only ones who had stayed there all week. No restaurants; just a grocery store and a pekara.

Spring is beautiful on Mljet. But nobody comes to enjoy it.

Which was great! We had the entire island to ourselves. Just us and the locals. Our host had 4 bikes that we could borrow. So we explored the primary sites (thanks Rick Steves') on bike for a few hours.

We were on Mljet with my sister Downi and her husband Boyce. Ever since joining us, Boyce had been talking about two things...football (aka soccer) and guns. While my interest in football is growing, I remain constitutionally uninterested in guns. But Boyce was having a great time with all of the military history in the Balkans.

Boyce at the shop in Sarajevo. 

After a day of exploring, we started to chat about the island with our host. He mentioned that there was an old WWII compound at the tip of the island that few people know about. This immediately piqued Boyce's interest. He also said something about a "cave" which got me interested. So despite having ridden our bikes all day, three of us decided to go off on more bike ride. The goal: to find this mysterious gun that was still intact at this site.

The old WWII compound is at the most Western tip of the island. We thought it would be a 10-minute bike ride. Double that at least.

We were not expecting this to be as cool as it was. We arrived completely unprepared. The entrance is really a "cave." It is an old Nazi underground bunker that is at least 400 meters. Completely in the dark. I did not bring my phone so I had no light. Fortunately Downi and Boyce brought theirs. So we proceeded to explore looking for this big gun.

At the compound entrance

Although our host had told us about this place, I was a little nervous that we were trespassing illegally on a government site. There were open gates just before we got to the compound...gates that probably have been shut before. And the site was very pristine. As we explored the underground cave, we found many WWII era things. A spool of old barb wire, earphones with Nazi insignias, barrels, chairs, etc. It was like going back in time 70 years.

Old rusty chairs and tables found in one room.

We found tracks that led to four gunnery stations. So we climbed up each of the stations looking for our big gun. The guns at the first three stations had been removed...but the tracks were still there. By the time we got the fourth and final station, we had kind of given up hope. But then we found this...

Although the pin has been removed, we were able to turn the cranks and aim it. Cannot believe that this has just been sitting out in the open for 70 years.

Boyce found his big gun. This was one of the absolute highlights of two-weeks of new European experiences for him.

Montenegro - Pršut in the Mountains

With only one day so far in Montenegro, we have not gotten too far off-the-beaten path. Perast and Kotor are not off-the-beaten path and most of our time was spent there. And the road to Cetinje is also quite well known. But what we found at the top was very cool and worth noting.

The village of Perast. I am planning on doing a later blog post about the Mary legend we learned about there.

The road above Kotor has to be ridden on to understand how cool it really is. It is essentially a single-lane highway that winds up a steep, steep mountain. But instead of being one-way, it is two-way. There are a few pull outs where a driver can pull over to allow another who is going the other way, to proceed. But you have to reverse to get back to these pullouts. And during the summer, the road is full of buses going both ways. What a mess! Buses reversing down these treacherous roads to find a pull out!

Picture time.

View of Kotor from the top of the road.

The road was constructed hundreds of years ago. The architect was in love with the Queen whose name was Mary. Because he could not express his love directly, he chose to do so through the design of his road.

I just assumed this stood for "Montenegro."

At the top of the mountain we stopped at a wonderful little farm that makes its own pršut (prosciutto). We were able to do a tour and see all of the prosciutto aging in the rafters. Because Sarajevo is 80% Muslim, pork is not specialty of the culture. Montenegro, on the other hand, has a long history of making pršut.

There are 4 more levels of pršut above this layer. The use all of this pršut in their restaurant...they do not do wholesale sales.

For me, Italy is the home of prosciutto. That is where my daughter, Briel, became hooked on prosciutto. And where I have eaten the best prosciutto. So I was curious how good Montenegro's pršut could be. I was pleasantly surprised at how good it was. It was better than the prosciutto I had recently eaten in Italy (Verona).

Montenegro pršut gets a big thumbs up from our little group...and it was about 1/3rd the price of Italy!!!

So there you go. Five adventures off-the-beaten path in the Adriatic North Mission. Do the Rick Steves' stuff when you visit. But also make sure you stop, like we did at Ston, when you see something really cool and change your plans as needed. Sretan put.